Aldo Conterno

Aldo Conterno is a contemporary legend in Barolo, thanks to his integrity as a winemaker and the wisdom whish he readily shares with other producers in his engaging gravelly voice. After emigrating to America in the 1950’s (and serving in the U.S. Army in Korea), Aldo returned to Monforte to resume a career in wine at the estate run by his father Giacomo and his older brother. Poderi Aldo Conterno is truly a family operation, with wife Gemma handling administration and sons Franco and Stefano in charge of Cellars and Vineyards. Aldo talks of retiring, but remains the driving spirit behind a winery whose Barolo invariably ranks among the most regal: the single-vineyard Bricco Bussia Cicala, Conlonnello and Bussia Soprana and, above all, riserva Granbussia, made in outstanding vintages from grapes selected in three vineyards and matured for six years before being sold. Aldo describes himself as a moderate traditionalist, though he admits with undisguised satisfaction that his sons have brought out a progressive streak in his nature. “Today we can make cleaner, fresher wines of great color, richer fruit and softer tannis than before, without losing that noble stature that is unique to Barolo,” he says. They mature Barolo religiously in large casks of Slavonian oak, but other wines, including the fine Barbera d’Alba DOC Conca Tre Pile and Langhe DOC Nebbiolo Il Favot, are finished in barriques. Total production from 31 hectares of vineyards ranges from 160,000 – 190,000bottels a year, including DOC Dolcetto d’Alba Bussia Soprana, Langhe Freisa Bussianella and two types of Chardonnay, one oak fermented, one not. Aldo also makes Barolo Chinato, a tonic produced by steeping the bark of the chinchona tree in the wine until it takes on the enticingly bitter flavor. That prized amaro is served mainly in the Conterno home.