Braida

A decade after his passing, Giacomo Bologna lingers large in memory for the genius and joy he brought to the world of wine. Among his accomplishments was the creation in 1982 of Bricco dell’Uccellone, a grandiose red that heralded the era of what is sometimes known as “Super Barbera.” That wine, from hillcrest vineyards at Rocchetta Tanaro near Asti, was matured in small oak barrel, or barriques, to help give it richness and depth of bouquet and flavor with mellow harmony. In short, a revelation. Other producers followed suit, finding that Barbera with its naturally high acidity and moderate grape tannins took well to new oak barrels. For the record Giacomo Bologna wasn’t the first Piedmontese winemaker to mature Barbera in Barriques (a practice apparently initiated by the intrepid Angelo Gaja). But nobody did more than Giacomo to uplift the image of Barbera from its perennial role as a commoner to its newfound status as a noble. As Bricco dell’Uccellone reached new levels of prestige and price, its success inspired further feats with Barbera. Giacomo, aided by his wife Anna and children Raffaella and Beppe, followed in 1985 with Bricco della Bigotta and in 1989 with Ai Suma, enriched by late-harvested grapes. That triumvirate stands as a monument to the new Barbera and Giacomo Bologna’s lasting tribute to his beloved Piedmont. The estate called Braida, the nickname of Giacomo’s father Giuseppe, originated as an outlet for bulk wines in the 1960’s when it was connected to the family trattoria. Today, with modern cellars and 32 hectares of vines, the Bologna family produces about 350,000 bottles a year of wines led by the three versions of Barbera d’Asti DOC, as well as a fizzy Barbera del Monferrato DOC, and ranging through Grignolino d’Asti DOC, Monferrato DOC il Baciale(Barbera with Pinot Nero), Brachetto d’Acqui DOCG and a fine Moscato d’Asti DOCG called Vigna Senza Nome (Vineyard Without Name).