Bruno Giacosa

Bruno Giacosa was perennially portrayed as a staunch traditionalist, whose Barbaresco showed the same sort of power, depth and longevity as the theoretically bigger Barolo. He was known as a barolista by admires of the grand old style of Barolo, though his most distinguished wine has been Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano di Neive, exemplified by the 1971, which stood for decades as a monument to Nebbiolo. Bruno, a pensive, patient man whose reserved manner belies his reputation as one of Piedmont’s all-time great winemakers, seems tired of hearing about old styles and new. The fact is that his remodeled family cellars at Neive in the Barbaresco zone are thoroughly up to date. Bruno and resident winemaker Dante Scaglione use stainless steel tanks to ferment wines for a normal 10-15 days on the skins (as opposed to the month or more of the past) and they mature Barbaresco and Barolo in medium-large barrels of French oak from Allier, rather than the ponderous old casks from Slavonia. They do not use the smaller barriques flavored by progressives and they continue to age reserve Barbaresco and Barolo (which carry wine-red labels instead of white) for three years in casks, somewhat longer than the norm. Bruno, who only recently bought some vineyards of his own, is known for his intimate knowledge of terroirs. This has enabled him to acquire grapes for a range of some of the most admired wines of Piedmont, produced at the rate of about 450,000 bottles a year. From Bararesco, he favors the crus of Asili, Gallina di Neive and, of course, Santo Stefano di Neive. For Barolo, he excels with Falletto and Vigna Rionda from Serrlunga and Villero from Castiglione Falletto. He also makes fine Barbera d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Alba, Nebbiolo d’Alba and Grignolino d’Asti. The graceful white Roero Arneis and exquisite sparkling Bruno Giacosa Extra Brut shows the versatility of a wine maker who might be described as an enlightened craftsman.