Roberto Voerizo

Roberto Voerizo makes small quantities of some of the most admired wines of Alba by working his vines with a resolve that might be considered fanatical were it not for his perennially youthful spirit and easygoing manner. His Barolo Brunate and Cerequio come from parcels of those vaunted vineyards of La Morra, wines that have won high marks and widespread attention. From the adjacent site of La Serra, Roberto makes a fine Barolo of the name and the prized Langhe DOC Vigna Serra, a blend of Nebbiolo with Barbera. Like other Barolo producers of his generation, Roberto grew up with an abiding faith in Nebbiolo as the nonpareil of Piedmontese varieties. But his leaning of late have been toward Barbera, a vine no longer relegated to second-class status. His new devotion has been built on the strength of a Barbera from Vigneto Pozzo dell’Annunziata, where his limits grape yields from the densely planted vines to almost ridiculously low levels. Roberto readily admits that this Barbera from the 1997 vintage overshadowed his Barolos in sheer grandeur – if not necessarily in depth and complexity (though that remains to be seen). The wine may be assessed as being too big in structure, too concentrated in color and extract and too strong (ranging around 15% alcohol). Yet, though it exceeds the conventional quotas of a dry red wine, this jumbo Barbera delivers an initial wallop and lingers on the palate with extraordinary finesse. It seems fitting that Roberto bottles Vigneto Pozzo dell’Annunziata in magnums that carry a whopping price. “I’m in not rush to sell it,” he admits. “To tell the truth, I’m hoping that fro once I’ll have a few bottles left to enjoy in my old age.” Roberto, aided by his wife Pinuccia, cultivates 10 hectares (7 of his own and 3 leased) to produce about 35,000 bottles a year, including the excellent Dolcetto d’Alba DOC Privino and Barolo of recent vintages from Capalot and Sarmassa, soon to be complemented by a wine from Roche dell’Annunziata.